Our final daytrip from Dubrovnik was to neighboring Bosnia-Herzegovina. One year ago, the only thing I could tell you about Bosnia – Herzegovina was that there was an awful war going on there when I was a kid. I remember hearing the name mentioned on the news and learning about the events in our history lessons, but further than that I didn’t really know much about the country. Let alone, that I would have planned a trip there. But once I found out that Mostar, the biggest city of the Herzegovina region was only 127 km’s from Dubrovnik, I just had to go there and learn more about the country’s history and customs.
Like with our trip to Montenegro, we were picked up at our hotel quite early in the morning by our driver from Perla Adriatica. Over the weekend we were hoping that Toni would be driving us to Mostar as well, so we were very happy to find out that this was the case. As he was born in Mostar, we were sure that he was going to share with us some interesting stories about his childhood days in Bosnia-Herzegovina.
KRAVICE WATERFALLS
The first stop on our Bosnia – Herzegovina trip were the Kravice Waterfalls, one of the most beautiful natural pearls in this part of Herzegovina. And something you shouldn’t miss while you’re in the area!
As we pulled up in the parking lot, Toni told us to go to the ticket booth for tickets and then hike down the trail that leads to the falls. The gorgeous falls were created by the tuff depositions surrounding the Trebižat river. The height of the waterfalls varies between 26 to 28 meters. Thanks to its natural beauty, the Kravice Waterfalls, were declared a natural phenomenon, protected by the state. The falls are a popular place for swimming, and honestly I would have loved to take a dip in the water too, because it was so hot and humid that day. Unfortunately there was no time, as we had to leave for Mostar. The hike back to the top was awful! It was so hot, and it wasn’t even summer yet, but the breathtaking views made it worth the efforts.
POCITELJ
Back on the road we made a quick pitstop in Počitelj to get some refreshments and use the bathroom if necessary 😉 Počitelj is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The city is seriously influenced by the Ottoman Empire, which you can clearly see in the beautiful architecture there. Unfortunately the city suffered serious damages during the Bosnian War. Many of Počitelj’s sixteenth-century master works of Islamic art and architecture got destroyed then. Therefore, in 1996 the World Monuments Watch named Počitelj as one of the world’s 100 most endangered cultural heritage sites.
I would have loved to spent more time there, and visit the Kula Fortress and Mosque of Sisman Ibrahim-Pasa, bus as this city wasn’t in the itinerary, it was nice to just catch a glimpse of it. Oh and hey while there you have to try the pomegranate juices the ladies are selling at their fruit stands, they’re so yummy.
MOSTAR
Once we arrived in Mostar, our local guide Jenna was already there to show us around the city and tell us something more about Mostar’s importance throughout history. Making our way from the parking lot to old town, the scars of the war, were immediately visible in the first buildings we came across. Bullet holes were scattered across exterior walls of occupied buildings and other buildings’ interiors were completely blown out by bombs with only the frames standing. The country is too poor to clean it up, so the inhabitants are confronted with this painful past every day, which is really sad.
Entering the Old Town you immediately feel the Eastern influences. It really reminded me of the bazaars in Turkey. So it’s the perfect place to shop for souvenirs, which we did later that day ?
First Jenna took us to see the most famous landmark of Mostar, Stari Most or the Old Bridge. The bridge was built by the Ottomans in the 16the century and stood for 427 years. It got destroyed in 1993, during one of the most horrible passages from the Yugoslavian War. With the aid of UNESCO and the European Union, the bridge was rebuilt to its former glory, even using the same local rocks and the Ottoman manner of construction. Be careful when you walk over the bridge, because the stones are very slippery.
If you’re lucky or you pay € 25, you’ll see someone jump from the Stari Most. Jumping of the bridge is a tradition since 1664. Tourists can also pay to jump from the bridge and receive a certificate for doing so. Although it was really amusing to watch (yes, we were lucky to witness a jump) it’s not something that I would recommend as it seemed really dangerous. Several people have actually died doing so, so DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!
If you want to know more about the history of the war, you must check out the War Photo Exhibition right next to the Old Bridge. Which is a very interesting way to learn more on Mostar’s turbulent history and the way it shaped the lives of its people.
Mostar is home to many mosques, but the one you should definitely visit is the Koski Mehmet-Pasha Mosque. The mosque dates back to the 17th century and offers the most wonderful views upon the Stari Most and the Neretva river.
Upon Jenna’s recommendations we had lunch at the Food House Mostar restaurant. He suggested we ordered the ‘Sultans Wedding Feast’ a meat platter with all the different kinds of local delicacies such as the Cevapici, Raznjici, sausages, Bosnian burgers with vegetables and freshly baked bread. Lunch trully was a feast, the food was divine!
I really enjoyed my time in Bosnia – Herzegovina and learnt a lot about its interesting history. It’s been very obvious to me that economically the country is suffering much more than Croatia. Tourism is an important part to many people’s income, and that is something you notice while being there. But in a good way! When it comes to customer service, the vendors and waiters are willing to go above and beyond to help you and to make sure you have a great experience there. I hope to return someday and discover more of the country.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
- Don’t forget your passport, you will need it to cross the borders. And as a bonus you will get some more stamps in it as well!
- Currency: Bosnian Mark (BAM), but you can also pay in Euro.